jueves, 19 de julio de 2007

El Sastrecillo Valiente y A la Mode

Serchizito me dejó (como buiiiina, es que soy fashion consultant pues, que te pasa? Oh mi Dios!!!) una pregunta sobre un terno para un matri. Sé que es temporada de matris y para mi, no hay nada mas sexy (ayayaiiii) que un hombre que sepa vestirse. Pero hay muchos que no tienen ni idea de lo que es vestirse bien. Tienen un veintiunico terno, una corbata y la misma camisa para ocasion....sean creativos!!! Un hombre bien enternadito es muy churro, y si nosotras nos producimos, porque ustedes no? Además soy media recontra maternalista ¿? y me gusta poderles enseñar si de algo sé, aunque solo sepa un poquito. Me permiten????

He hecho un pequeño research en la materia, y aqui unos cuantos advices de los conocedores en la materia + mi opinion personal (Obvio!) y muchas muchas fotos, en lo que a trajes se refiere:

Primero que nada, entendamos que un terno lo compramos o lo mandamos a hacer en conjunto, es decir, la tela del pantalon es la misma tela del saco y viceversa. Esa es la regla número uno en lo que a trajes de vestir se refiere. Acá no hay nada de combinados, que mira si el color se parece, que si se ven igualitos, de lejos sí la hacen....nooooo. La tela del saco y pantalon debe ser LA MISMA.

Segunda regla basica: Asegurate que el terno te quede. Lo he repetido 100 veces y lo repetiré 100 veces mas. La ropa debe quedar donde debe quedar, ni mas largo ni mas corto, ni mas grande ni mas chica. El hombro en el hombro es el mejor punto de partida, y el pantalon en la cintura es la mejor forma de continuarlo.



Las camisas

  • Jamás camisas transparentosas. JAMAS.

  • Asegurate que tu camisa te quede bien. Que el largo de la camisa llegue a tus muñecas y no quede sobre ellas (aun no existen las camisas mangas 3/4 de vestir para hombres y NO creo que existan anytime soon).

  • El cuello de la camisa no te debe de ahorcar (eso lo haremos nosotras si se portan mal) ni quedar suelto, o tu corbata por muy linda que sea, se verá MAL.

  • Abotónate todos los botones de camisa, te aseguro que el señor que hizo tu camisa los puso ahí por algo.

  • Si tu camisa es para gemelos USALOS!!! Son super elegantes y te dan cierto caché, pero si vas a usar gemelos con motivos (tipo dados, carritos, etc...) fijate que no sean demasiado llamativos, que no compitan con tu corbata ni con tu traje, y si puedes, mejor dejalos guardaditos y consiguete unos mas sobrios.

  • Es son de Salvatore Ferragamo y Burburry:


Las corbatas
  • Hombres maduros y/o mayores de edad: Ya no se juega con corbatas pre-anudadas. Anudar una corbata no es nada del otro jueves y un buen nudo es muy elegante, asi que ya saben y boten esas corbatas que vienen solo para abrochar.
  • Olvidense (para eventos formales o no) de las corbatas estampadas con algun tipo de personaje caricaturesco o de Walt Disney, ya? las corbatas de Mickey Mouse o con caritas de smile que se usaron hace unos cuantos varios años y que seguro tu hijita o tu novia te regalo, guardalas como un lindo recuerdo y punto.
  • Las corbatas con estampados de rayas son las que mas se usan ahora, pero las de pequeños diseños clasicos serán siempre así, clasicas. Ambas fotos son de Salvatore Ferragamo:


  • El largo de la corbata es básico y debe ser el apropiado, debe de llegar justo a la altura del cinturon, no debe de ser mas alto ni mas largo. Por favor vean las figuritas. Gracias.


Combo Mega Mix:

Camisa + Corbata (y tu oportunidad de ser creativo)
Una camisa clásica, para el trabajo o para eventos, por lo general basada en colores solidos (o sea, camisas sin estampar) en colores blancos, grises y celestes son geniales para combinar con corbatas estampadas, pero a veces pecan de aburridas.

Algunas veces (creamne que sí hombres del Perú) es bueno tomar riesgos y apelar a camisas con algun tipo de estampado...no me maten, al menos las camisas a rayas, delagadas o gruesas, combinadas con una corbata tambien estampada, salva a cualquier traje del aburrimiento absoluto y es una total muestra de buen gusto (si lo sabes hacer, obvio) y te hace materia de potencial cumplido por tu date. Pero a veces pueden parecer medio complicadas de combinar...camisa a rayas y corbata estampada.

Pero para tener este combo mega mix ganador, hay ciertas reglas básicas, como todo en esta vida, que nos hacen la situacion un poco mas sencilla:

  • Camisa a rayas + corbata a rayas + terno color entero: van, siempre y cuando el grosor de las rayas no sean identicos.

Armani


  • Camisa a rayas + corbata a rayas + terno a rayas: Sólo si quieres parecer miembro de alguna familia de cebras. NO van.
  • Tu corbata debe repetir al menos, un color de tu camisa, tu terno, zapatos o cinturon (las medias no juegan).
  • Hablando de medias blancas, si no quieres que te confundan con algún mozo (con el respeto que los mozos se merecen y creo que ningun mozo jamas lo haria) NI SE TE OCURRA usar medias blancas con tu terno.
  • Algunas combinaciones:

Dolce & Gabbana
Ermenegildo Zegna

Giorgio Armani


Paul Smith

Los pantalones
  • El largo del pantalón es importantisimo. Ni largo ni corto. Un panatalón de vestir empieza en la cintura (NO en las caderas) y llega hasta la rozar la suela del zapato por el talon. No debe de llegar mas alto porque cuando estas parado no queremos ver tus medias ni tampoco debe hacerse ningun tipo de acordeon musical con el piso. Aqui hay unas muestras:



  • Descartamos los colores pasteles para los pantalones de vestir, no??? Esto creo que no hay ni que decirlo.
  • De preferencia chicos, los pantalones sin pinzas en el frente porfavor, (como en las figuritas de arriba), . Sabemos que todos los ternos clásicos tienen pinzas, al menos los que tienes en tu closet, pero si tienes la oportunidad de hacerte un traje nuevo, busca un corte recto, plain como se dice. Sin pinzas.

Zapatos y medias

  • Lamentablemente, si hablamos de trajes de vestir (una reu en la office, un matri o algo así) los hombres solo tienen dos opciones: zapatos negros o marrones. Sólo algunas ocaciones y si el color del terno lo permite (OJO, cuidado con esto) podrás usar zapatos color cognac o similar.
  • El modelo puede variar, aunque lo mas clasico son los zapatos de atar, hay opciones de zapatos con diseño o zapatos simples.


  • La correa debe combinar SIEMPRE con los zapatos. (personalmente, en la mujer, a mi no me gusta mucho la perfeccion que da el look de cartera/correa/zapato, me estresa, me da comezon, me gusta la cosa mas improvisada pero esto no viene al caso, este post es para hombres). NUNCA correa negra y zapato marron o viceversa. NUNCA.
  • Un traje de vestir de hombre, siempre debe llevar correa. Siempre.
  • Las medias deben ser un accesorio que pase desapercibido, NO deben bajo ninguna circunstacia llamar la atención. Pueden ser de color entero, o tener pequeños puntitos o estampados y siempre uniformizar visualmente el conjunto de zapatos con pantalon. Por favor, que sea de preferencia que combine con el zapato

Algo mas? Me olvidé de algo? Estan de acuerdo? en desacuerdo? Sugerencias? Pase usted por los comentarios por favor.

Encuentra este post actualizado y con más información haciendo click acá

195 comentarios:

darling dijo...

Este post te quedó genial. Bien investigado, bien escrito y con buen gusto.

Chicos del mundo, háganle caso a Serendipity.

Mariella dijo...

AYYY que lindo se va a ver mi Kid en nuestro matri del sábado!!!
Solo un comentario:
DILE NO AL TERNO CRUZADO!!!
Me parece fatal. Y llevarlo con el saco abierto? De terror.

El Chepis dijo...

Mi amor! El post te quedó genial!!!
Creo que cumplí con la mayoría de los requisitos, excepto el pantalón sin pinzas... pal próximo será. Y si no cumplo me dices DE HECHO!

Ahora, te faltan las reglas del juego a la hora de usar un traje o un terno en una ocasión formal.

No desajustar la corbata y andar con los botones superiores abiertos... etc. Pero para eso que lean a la tía Frieda, no?

Me encantó el post. Para qué te digo que no, si sí. Qué enamorada tan interesante tengo! :D

JOSEMAN dijo...

woow! Tu post me ha cambiado la percepciòn del mundo!
No sabia que la gente alucinaba que era un mozo!, con razon en los matris me piden que les lleve mas roncito!...sinceramente me gusto. Buenos datos.
Te voy a empezar a leer. what about you?

Serch dijo...

Me disculparas por el tono de voz y las palabras que usare pero... PUTA MADRE QUE ERES LO MAXIMO!!!!
:-D
solo me quedó una duda... weno dos...
la primera, la corbata solo estampada? no bordada? y las de seda tejida? (tengo una fascinacion por estas ultimas :-D)
y la segunda duda, donde queda el pañuelo? en el bolsillo del pantalon? (por lo general los mios combinan con mi camisa)
PD: duda adicional... tengo una camisa que no es a cuadros, es tramada... se ve bien con un terno de lineas?????
:-S
PD2: ta bravazo esto!!!!! :-D

Dragón del 96 dijo...

Cuando dices pinzas son los famosos pliegues, verdad? Yo no uso nada con pliegues (me lo enseñó FD96).

Para ser sincero, solo tengo un terno y es de invierno (no conozco los terminos, pero se que es para invierno por que me dijeron "este es par invierno") y sé que debo comprarme otro, pero tengo un problema... me da miedo el sastre y es que. He escuchado historias de algunos a los que se les pasa la mano cuando miden el pantalon. (ya sabes, la tipica pregunta de " para la izquierda o la derecha"?).

Y si el terno es rayado... cualquier color de camisa/corbata (que hagan combo como dices) es bueno? Como toda moda, creo que las rayas en ternos pasaron su epoca, no sé que dices tu?

Slaudos.

Aleinad dijo...

que chevere tu post!!! te quedó mostro a parte que son las cosas BÁSICAS que es buen osaber pues no?

besos mi reina

Serendipity dijo...

darling...tienes razon, si los chicos del mundo me hicieran caso, el mundo seria un lugar mejor...:P

marie...referente al terno cruzado, la verdad que se usa de tooodos los estilos, no hay una regla ni una moda, mucho mas moderno (para la juventud de hoy) son los de botones sin cruzar. Demando fotos de Kid enternado porfavor!

Mi Chepisss...mejor que el Dedo Meñique, voy a conseguirme el Dress Code & Manners del Club Nacional, que te parece???

Joseman...gracias por la visita, nos leemos!!!

Serch:
1)las corbatas bordadas y en especial las de seda tejida son preciosas! a mi me encantan y siempre quedan super bien, a parte que arman un nudo super elegante.
2)Los pañuelos, si te gustan, te los pones en el bolsillo del saco...esto depende porque no ha todos los hombres les gusta ponerse pañuelos, pero es un clásico y se sigue viendo en las pasarelas de los mejores diseñadores (ASUU!)
3) No te recomiendo camisa a rayas con terno a rayas,no se ve nadita bien. Si tienes tu terno a rayas, usalo con una camisa de un solo color y muestra tu creatividad con una corbata estampada o de lineas diagonales.(...me estoy convirtiendo en un monstruo...) :S

Dragon Ball...Vaya usted al sastre y dejese de miedos! No hay como un traje hecho a la medida. Ahora, si el temor por tus balls (en ingles suena mas cute, no??)puede mas, comprate un terno y que simplemente te lo ajusten a tu medida, en realidad en cualquier sitio donde vendan ternos te ofrecen este servicio de costumizar las prendas.

Tienes razon en cuanto a los ternos con rayas, no es lo mas moderno, pero hoy en dia no hay nada realmente que NO esté de moda sino prendas mal llevadas (o sea, la percha SI es importante). Suerte con tu precoseo de modernizacion del terno, y me parece genial que quieras uno nuevo porque el dia que tengas que utilizarlo y tengas un buen terno en tu closet, vas a estar muy orgulloso de tí. :)

Prima...GRACIASSSSSSS.

Mafa dijo...

Eres toda una teacher, felicitaciones!!!

Mi mami es también una maestra en lo que se refiere a ternos, camisas, corbatas y zapatos, porque por los 80' trabajó en la sección de ropa para caballeros de una tienda conocida y dice que vestía a muchos hombres de negocios y figuras de opinión.

Pero de hecho Tía Sere, tú estas reloaded! Felicitaciones de nuevo, mandaré tu posts a algunos amigos en el acto.

Mami Brujita dijo...

Excelente post. Se lo voy a pasar a mi maridin para que se instruya de una buena vez (el es el tipico hombre que ni mira que se pone). Un favor, algun dia podras postear sobre como debe vestir un hombre para una ocasion no tan formal pero tampoco sport (digamos para una cena informal o para ir a una exposicion). Muchas gracias (que sea con fotitos porque te quedaron super)

El Azulado dijo...

Tu post me ha hecho quemar 2 ternos y 4 corbatas.

El perro andaluz dijo...

Siempre he visto al terno como un disfraz y así me siento cuando lo llevo puesto (una a las 500)pero voy a tomar en cuenta tus consejos cuando tenga que adquirir uno.
Vale

mirandoelalma dijo...

si mi proximo galán no visita tu blog antes de ponerse un terno la verdad que no voy a ninguna parte...
Todo demasiado lindo, solo no me gusto la camisa de Erme....combinada con esa corbata.
Ah! y definitivamente yo no salgo a comprar una nunca m{as en mi vida si siempre me parecio díficil ahora mucho más con tanta recomnedación;)...aue se la compren solitos total nosotras nos compramos lo aretes sin preguntarles, un beso.

digler dijo...

que buen post...

debo confesar que lo segui con algo de nerviosismo, felizmente atiné con casi todas, claro, no tengo camisa para usar gemelos, pero eso es algo que se puede solucionar

chica dijo...

Estaba leyendo tu post y en ese llegué a la parte en que decía "todo hombre bien enternado..." solo que mi mente hizo de las suyas y leyó "... bien ENTRENADO"... jiji :D

schatz67 dijo...

Cosmogirl,

Me gustó mucho el post.Muy necesario teniendo en cuenta el gran numero de hombres mal vestidos que encuentras en matrimonios y ocasiones "elegantes".

Eso sí,te faltó hacer la sacrosanta advertencia:Nada de medias blancas por favor.

Un abrazo

Schatz

Reivajss dijo...

jajaja.. ok ok, vere que puedo hacer.
(un polo blanco un jean azul medias blancas de deporte y unas zapatillas jaja mentira.. seguire en la medida de lo posible algunos consejos)

Petisita dijo...

A mi alter ego le fascina la moda tambien. Viste que se esta usando mucho los tonos del lila al morado en camisas de hombre? al mio amore le compre una camisa lila para ir a un matri y se le veia modelo de Dolce & Gabbana con su traje gris oscuro, bellissimo!!!. Pero bueno, esa es mi alter ego, yo soy cero reglas al vestirme y me gustan la ropa "de autor" como le dicen en algunos paises, por decir ropa alternativa.

Juanitho dijo...

Recien acabo de encontrar este post y justo es lo que te estaba preguntando ya me quedan dos dias pa el matri de una amiga, please ayudame con estas dudas existenciales:

-nunca he usado gemelos, pensaba q se ponian en el terno y no en la camisa ¿como se sabe q una camisa es para gemelos? ¿los gemelos de camisa se pueden usar en terno?

-me gustan las camizas esas de colores pero con cuello blanco, ¿hay alguna regla para su uso? ¿estan de moda?

-ese detalle del pañuelo en el bolsillo superior me gusta harto, pero ni idea como hacer para que queden perfectas... help!!

PD.- ahorita estoy botando 3 ternos que no vale la pena guardarlos!

Serendipity dijo...

Juanitho:

1) Los gemelos se usan en las camisas y te daras cuenta porque la camisa viene con dos orificios en los puños y mas que seguro el vendedor te va a decir que es para gemelos. Don't worry. Los sacos NO LLEVAN GEMELOS, eso NO EXISTE, pero SI SE USA LA CAMISA DE GEMELOS (con gemelos obvio) en un TERNO.

2) Las camisas de color entero con cuello blanco te las recomiendo, pero no para un matri, si quieres quedar como rey, combina una camisa de rayas delgaditas verticales o una camisa a cuadritos bien pequeños con una corbata de rayas oblicuas (fijate que la camisa y la corbata tengan colocres en comun)

3) El pañuelo en la camisa es super elegante, trata de formar primero un cuadrado, y luego forma con uno de los lados un triangulo ¿? y la punta del triangulo es la que sale en punta por el bolsillo. Voy a buscar imagenes para mostrarte mejor, ya??

Suerte!!!

Juanitho dijo...

Te cuento que en el matri me fue bien, me compré una corbata naranja a rallitas en villa cravata, una camiza JH para gemelos (fui a D&G y Ermenegildo Zegna pero no me alcanzaba para tanto) obvio con unos gemelos plateados (solo prestados, espero mas adelante comprarme unos de colores) y su ajusta-corbata de plata (desconosco su nombre) todo en un estilo clasico aunque no pude conseguir pañuelos (en JH me dijeron son especiales para terno) te agradesco mucho toda la ayuda, molte grazie, muito ubrigado!

Adonai dijo...

Me parece muy interesante este post, y me sirve para reafirmar mi gusto por los pantalones rectos.
Siempre he tenido esta duda y espero que me ayuden:
1-Tengo una preguntas: Cuanto debe llevar de ancho el pantalon, en la parte de abajo (en la parte del ruedo) para que no quede perfecto, ni ancho ni muy angosto.
2-La medida de la brageta(tiro o parte del ziper)cuantos cms. debe tener.
3- Quisiera sabe a que pregunta se refiere dragón del 96 cuando dice: He escuchado historias de algunos a los que se les pasa la mano cuando miden el pantalon. (ya sabes, la tipica pregunta de " para la izquierda o la derecha"?).
gracias

Anónimo dijo...

gracias por compartir tu tiempo y tus conocimientos.

BAcktotheJungle08 dijo...

Excelente tus comentarios y sugerencias de como un hombre debe vestirse formalmente!

Saludos desde Guayaquil - Ecuador

Te reitero mis felicitaciones por tus tan acertados consejos!

Ate


Walter

GEL dijo...

Hola, tu post esta super. Me ha dado datos muy valiosos para combinar algunas cosas que no tenia muy claras.
Pero queria hacerte algunas consultas:
1. Las camisas con rayas a cuadros con que corbata y que traje combinan?
2. Los trajes con rayas verticales (delgadas) combinan con una camisa de color entero y de rayas no diagolanes (o sea, verticales)?
3. El rosado (en corbata a rayas verticales o en camisa) con que color de traje combinan? Hago esta pregunta porque tengo una corbata rosa con lineas blancas verticales (ambas del mismo grosor) y se que se ve bonita con una camisa blanca pero no se con que traje mezclarlo :(
4. Cuales son las combinaciones de colores (y formas) que puedes usar con:
a. Un traje negro
b. Un traje gris con rayas blancas
c. Un traje plomo con rayas grises
Mil gracias por tu gentil respuesta. Ojala estas cosas tambien te las enseñaran en la universidad jajaja :D

JMG dijo...

Buen post.
Necesitaba algunos tips y me va a servir definitivamente.

C_jeferson_27 dijo...

esta muy interesante todo, y bien escrito, con una buena investigacion, gracias

C_jeferson_27 dijo...

esta todo muy bien, esta interesante, esta bien escrito y muy bien investigado.

JuanMartinSR dijo...

Hola, una consulta, tengo un matrimonio y me compré un terno negro, una camisa blanca y tengo unos gemelos plateados, quisiera me puedas ayudar a elegir el color de la corbata, había pensado ponerme una negra o plata, pero me han sugerido una color lila o morado que se está usando mucho, qué me sugieres. Muchas gracias.

Juan Martín

Jorge dijo...

Excelente post... me hiciste mirar de la cabeza a los pies y eso que ya es antiguito... definitivamente diste que hablar...Gracias

Anónimo dijo...

Hola, muy buena entrada. Es genial poder ver que hay blogs de moda que sí llegan a interesarse un poco en la audiencia masculina que las sigue jajaja.

Creo que te faltó un punto importante que es el color de terno. Los colores se adaptan a estaciones y tipo de festividad, es así que lo mejor para un matrimonio de tarde es un terno gris (claro o oscuro), mientras que para actividades nocturnas lo recomendables es el navy blue o el clásico y siempre favoreciente negro.

En épocas invernales los trajes hechos de tweed y otras lanas también suelen ponerse de moda. Lamentablemente en el país seguimos con la costumbre de telas neutras y medio sosas que no pasan de las rayas y el pespunte.

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