Introduccion:
Miranda Priestley: This... 'stuff'? Oh... ok. I see, you think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select out, oh I don't know, that lumpy blue sweater, for instance, because you're trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don't know is that that sweater is not just blue, it's not turquoise, it's not lapis, it's actually cerulean. You're also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar De La Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves St Laurent, wasn't it, who showed cerulean military jackets? And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of 8 different designers. Then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic casual corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and so it's sort of comical how you think that you've made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you're wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room. From a pile of stuff.
Tal cual la cadena alimentaria del reyno animal que nos enseñaron en el cole (fitoplacton, placton, pez, ceviche, hombre) funciona el mundo de la moda. Cómo? Los primeros en llegar son unas importantisimas agencias que tienen por el mundo coolhunters repartidos. Una de las pricipales y que la revista Cosas entrevistó hace poco para su especial de modas es la de Nelly Rodi o la empresa Synovate. Su función es captar todo aquello que como el nombre lo dice, les parezca cool, adivinar tendencias, y novedades que tengan futuro, cool, no??? Ellos elaboran unos Cabinet de Tendencias, elementales para cualquier diseñador y que son utilizados como punto de partida.
Estas empresas han cobrado tal importancia en el mundo, que su trabajo no se limita a cazar tendencias y modas de ropa, si no también a la decoración, muebles, autos, pelos, etc...O sea, yo quierooooo!!!!!!
Continuando con la cadena, tenemos las colecciones de Haute Couture, que son las mas caras y teatrales y poco ponibles, para después venir el Pret a Porter o Ready to Wear (es que estamos internacionales, o qué???) el cual debería estar mas al alcance de todos económicamente hablando y ser mas ponible, características que no siempre se dan (es que uso una vez mas la palabra ponible y el galán me agarra a zapatasos). La mayoría de marcas famosas y de diseñadores (por no decir todos) presentan 2 veces al año su colección Pret a Porter.
Las colecciones Pret a Porter son utilizadas como inspiración (por no decir copia) por marcas como Zara o MNG y H&M, aunque a estas últimas dos les debemos reconocer el esfuerzo que están haciendo por ser cada vez mas originales, dándoles participacion a personajes como Madonna para que diseñen sus propias colecciones bajo estas marcas y/o ofreciéndoles a diseñadores como Karl Lagerfeld la oportunidad de diseñar para las "masas". Además que desde hace algún tiempo utilizan a importantes artistas como imagen de su marca.
Y escribo "masas" así, entre comillas, porque si bien son marcas para el común denominador de cristianos, en nuestro país, y aquí me pongo la camiseta de Perú con P de Patria, el 1% de la población tienen acceso a vestiditos de US$120.00 o sacos de US$175.00, etc...no es nuestra realidad, entonces que pasa??? Tenemos tiendas como Falabella y Ripley, que con sus marcas Marquis, Axxs, Navigata, Basement, etc...adaptan a los anteriores, lo fabrican en recontra masas, baratito no mas, made in China y nos lo venden.
Este proceso de adaptación a mi me resulta de lo mas interesante, porque es eso, adaptación, la moda no se modifica ni cambia ni se inventa nada, se adapta a cada mercado, eso es todo.
Pero mejor ilustro:
Burberry vs. MNG
Zara Vs. Gucci SS 06-07
Pucci vs. MNG (algo así hubo tambien en las vitrinas de la tienda Marquis en el JP)
YSL vs. Zara
Unas propuestas de Chloe de su coleccion invierno 2007:
Y esta es la version de H&M:
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